A Day in Gradara, the Medieval Village of Paolo and Francesca’s Love
There is a place, just a handful of minutes from La Maggiolina, where time seems to have stopped in the Middle Ages. Where the battlemented walls still tell of knights, ladies, sieges, and poisons, and where, between one tower and the next, hovers the most celebrated — and tragic — love story ever told in verse: that of Paolo and Francesca, immortalized by Dante Alighieri in the Fifth Canto of the Inferno.
That place is Gradara, one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy, perched on a hill 142 metres above sea level, right on the border where the gentle spirit of the Marche meets the warm hospitality of Romagna. If you find yourself in our area, Gradara absolutely deserves a full day: not only for its Rocca, considered one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Italy, but also for the pleasure of wandering its cobblestone alleys, among artisan shops, fragrant taverns, and views that stretch to the Adriatic Sea on one side and fade into the gentle hills on the other.
Make yourself comfortable: we’ll tell you what to see, what to eat, and why Gradara will steal your heart.
One Fortress, Many Lords: the History of Gradara
The history of Gradara begins in that distant and fascinating period we call the Middle Ages. The oldest part of the castle — the mighty keep, the main tower — dates back to the late 12th century, when the De Grifo family built a simple watchtower here. According to tradition, the village’s name is thought to derive from the Latin Grata Aura, a tribute to its mild climate; at the base of the keep, stone blocks from the Roman era are still preserved, one of which bears the carved inscription “DEMETRI”.
It was then the Malatesta, the powerful Lords of Rimini, who transformed Gradara from a military stronghold into a noble residence, and above all who wanted that double ring of walls — built between the 13th and 14th centuries — that still makes the village so picturesque and almost impregnable.
And truly impregnable it was. In 1446, Gradara was the scene of one of the most famous sieges of the 15th century: Francesco Sforza, allied with Federico da Montefeltro (yes, the very Duke of Urbino), besieged the fortress with cannons, bombards, and arquebuses for a full 40 days, determined to wrest it from Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta. Yet, aided by bad weather and the arrival of Malatesta reinforcements, the Rocca held firm and Sforza was forced to retreat. Only in 1463, after Sigismondo’s defeat at the hands of Federico da Montefeltro, did Gradara pass to the Sforza.
In the years that followed, the castle saw some of Italy’s most powerful families pass through: in 1494, just fourteen years old, Lucrezia Borgia arrived, second wife of Giovanni Sforza, for whom significant embellishment works were carried out, along with frescoes and inscriptions still visible today. After the Borgias came the Della Rovere, then the Papal State, and finally a slow decline into ruin.
Gradara’s saviour, in the twentieth century, was the Zanvettori family: in 1920 Umberto Zanvettori purchased the Rocca and financed its restoration, entrusted in part to architect Giuseppe Sacconi (the same architect behind the Vittoriano in Rome), restoring the fortified village to its former glory. Since 1928, the Rocca has been the property of the Italian State and is today one of the most visited state museums in Italy.
Paolo and Francesca: the Love That Made Gradara Immortal
You cannot truly know Gradara without letting yourself be captivated by the story that has consecrated its fame for centuries.
We are in the 13th century. Francesca da Polenta, daughter of the Lord of Ravenna, is given in marriage to Giovanni Malatesta, known as “Gianciotto” for his limping gait. According to the tale, the young woman was deceived into believing she would marry the handsome Paolo, Gianciotto’s younger brother. When the deception was discovered too late, Francesca never stopped loving Paolo: the two became lovers and their passion, it is said, lasted for years. Until one day in September 1289, Gianciotto surprised them together and, blinded by jealousy, killed them both with the same sword.
The one who immortalized this tragedy was Dante, who places the two lovers among the lustful in the Fifth Canto of the Inferno, yet portrays them as forever inseparable. His are the verses that still seem to breathe within these walls:
Love, that exempts no beloved one from loving,
seized me with his delight in this man so strongly,
that, as you see, it still does not leave me.
From Dante onwards, the story of Paolo and Francesca has inspired generations of artists, writers, and poets — from Boccaccio to Petrarch, from Foscolo to Pellico, from Carducci to Pascoli and all the way to D’Annunzio. And even today, inside the Rocca, you can visit the evocative Francesca’s chamber, with the famous trapdoor in which, according to legend, Paolo’s cloak got caught during his escape.
What to See in Gradara
The Rocca (the Castle)
It is the beating heart of the village and the first thing that will take your breath away. Once across the drawbridge, you enter the elegant colonnaded Courtyard of Honour, where the castle’s history can be read at a glance: on one side the Gothic arches of the Malatesta period, on the other the slender travertine columns and rounded arches commissioned by the Sforza.
Inside, 14 rooms furnished with antique furniture and works of art take you on a journey through time: the Torture Chamber, the Family Chapel with the glazed terracotta altarpiece by Andrea Della Robbia (1480), the frescoes by Amico Aspertini in the piano nobile, the altarpiece by Giovanni Santi (Raphael’s father), the Small Room of Lucrezia Borgia, the Council Chamber, the Chamber of the Cherubs, and, of course, Francesca’s chamber, the emotional focal point of the entire visit.
The Battlements Walkway
Not to be missed under any circumstances. Walking along the ancient pathways that run along the outer walls — nearly 800 metres punctuated by battlemented towers — you will feel as though you are stepping into the shoes of the sentinels who once defended the village. From up here the view stretches as far as the eye can see: on one side the Adriatic Sea and the Romagna coast, on the other the hills of the Marche all the way to Monte Carpegna and the Titan of San Marino.
The Village and Its Treasures
The historic centre is entered through the Clock Gate, which bears the coats of arms of the three great dynasties — Montefeltro, Sforza and Malatesta. From here you climb along Corso Umberto I, with its low buildings, houses that seem to cling to one another, and artisan shops where ancient crafts can be rediscovered. Along the way, worth a stop are the Historical Museum with its hypogean cave carved into the tuff, the Church of San Giovanni Battista with its 14th-century Crucifix, Palazzo Rubini Vesin (now an exhibition space), the Teatro dell’Aria with its ornithological park and falconry shows, and the street art trail “Beyond the Walls”.
The Lovers’ Walk and the Forest of Paolo and Francesca
If you are looking for a romantic moment — or simply a break in nature — follow the little red hearts of the Lovers’ Walk, which winds all around the castle, or venture into the paths of the Forest of Paolo and Francesca, which encircle the hill among cultivated fields, Mediterranean scrubland, and splendid views of the sea. It is the perfect way to close the day, perhaps hand in hand.
What to Eat in Gradara
Being right on the border, Gradara boasts a cuisine that pleases everyone: the so-called “marchignola”, where the flavours of the Marche meet the richness of Romagna, with the occasional dish of fresh Adriatic seafood making an appearance.
Specialities you absolutely must try:
- Tagliolini con la Bomba, a peasant-tradition dish seasoned with onion, lard, and pepper: the curious name comes from the “explosive” sizzle of the boiling hot soffritto poured over the pasta.
- Bigol, thick spaghetti made with water and flour, dressed with rustic meat sauces or porcini mushrooms.
- L’Amor piada, the heart-shaped flatbread from the Marche, perfect to enjoy while strolling through the alleyways.
- Il crescione, strozzapreti pasta in a light mortadella sauce, and lacchene with beans.
- Local cured meats and cheeses, above all the exquisite Carpegna prosciutto.
All to be enjoyed with a good glass of local wine: a Bianchello del Metauro, a Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi or a local red. If you fancy a good pizza with a craft beer, head to Pizzeria da Berto. And before you leave, take a look around the shops: as well as handmade ceramics, in Gradara you can take home the “Perfume of Paolo and Francesca” or the card game “Intrigues at Gradara”.
Events: When Gradara Returns to the Middle Ages
Gradara calls itself the “Capital of the Middle Ages, of Love and the City of Play”, and its events calendar proves it. If you can, try to time your visit with one of these events:
- Gradara d’Amare (February), for lovers during the Valentine’s Day period.
- Thursdays at the Castle (June–September), summer evenings in the village.
- Siege of the Castle (July), the spectacular historical re-enactment of the 1446 siege, with battles, period costumes, and pyromusical shows.
- The Magic Castle (August), when the village is transformed into an enchanted world of dragons and fantastical creatures.
- Halloweek (October) and the Christmas Castle (December), which wrap Gradara in a magical atmosphere.
One last tip: even in the evening, when the soft lights illuminate the walls and the alleyways empty out, Gradara exudes an absolutely unique charm.
Useful Visitor Information
The Rocca di Gradara is open Tuesday to Sunday (generally 9:30–18:30/19:00, with extended hours in summer) and on Mondays with reduced hours (9:30–14:00). A full-price ticket to the Rocca costs around €8, reduced to €2 for those aged 18–24, and free for under-17s; entry is free for everyone on the first Sunday of the month (with booking). The Battlements Walkway has a separate ticket costing a few euros. There is also a combined ticket pairing the Rocca with the National Gallery of the Marche in Urbino: a perfect idea if you want to visit two gems of the area. We recommend checking updated opening times and prices on official channels before you leave, as these may vary with the season.
For a truly rich visit, it is worth hiring a guide: hearing the story of Paolo and Francesca told within these walls is an experience worth the journey. Gradara is also a pet-friendlyvillage: your four-legged friends are welcome in the village, on the walkways and in the Historical Museum (in the Rocca, only small dogs in a carrier).
How to Get Here from La Maggiolina
Gradara is truly just a stone’s throw from us: by car it takes about twenty minutes. Once in the village you will find several paid car parks near the walls.
In short, a day in Gradara is the ideal way to enrich your holiday in our hills with a plunge into the Middle Ages, amid history, legend and fine cuisine. And on your return, nothing beats relaxing in the peace of La Maggiolina, perhaps sipping a glass of wine on the patio as the sun sets behind the olive trees: the perfect ending to a day worth telling.
Happy exploring, and… let Gradara enchant you!
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